Finally, a problem with the oil pump can also cause the pressure to drop. If the fluid is low, it can cause the pressure to drop. Another possibility is a problem with the brake fluid itself. The most common cause is a leak in the brake line. Suppose your car’s oil pressure drops while braking there are a few possible causes. Why Dodge Ram Oil Pressure Drops When Braking – Causes And Fixes We have researched further and added some answers to our reader’s burning question. In today’s article, we have covered all the possible factors that cause a drop in oil pressure and given proper solutions. The engine doesn’t need as much oil when it’s not moving.īut if it goes to zero or close to it, you may have run out of oil, or the tube that picks up oil from the pump may have come off. So why Dodge Ram oil pressure drops when braking? The oil pressure usually goes down when you stop or hit the brakes. Many times the oil pressure drops when braking. It is one of the most important things you can do to keep your car’s engine healthy and in good shape. With the shitty master/slave setup, and the problems with the synchros that seem to be popping up daily, the DCR auto trans looks really good in my opinion.When driving, you should always keep an eye on the oil pressure. It will always cost you more time and money. But since these cars are still relatively new, there are not that many options. When i took the clutch out there was a ton of disk material in the bellhousing, A TON.īut to be honest I would go with a setup that has been tried and proven to work. I pushed the clutch in, put the trans in 1st, and brought the RPMs up to around 5000, and the car started pulling forward with the clutch to the floor. I found out the clutch wasn't disengaging all the way when I tried to launch on slicks for the first time. Whenever I would try to wot shift at redline it would never work, always missed the gear. I was the 3rd or 4th person to try the spec clutch, way back in December of 03. I had a similar experience with the Spec clutch. Yeah even though you said you measured it and the clearances looked good, there is obviously something that isnt right. So all in all, I'm very tired of these clutch interference problems, and am about to abandon the manual in favor of an auto trans from DCR. After replacing the input shaft, it worked great for another 3 days, and then the arm started hitting the pressure plate again. It worked great for 3 days until I broke my input shaft. So I tore it down again, clearanced the arm a bit, and put it back together. After putting in the mopar clutch, I had major pressure plate to arm interference. So I thought about just using the mopar pressure plate with the disk, but I also thought it would be nice not to have to deal with the jerking you get when trying to feather off the line with a puck disk. This made for excellent, smooth as butter shifts, but as I'm sure most of you would guess, the pressure plate didn't have enough clamping force to hold the power. It was only very close to the top of the pedal when the clutch would start engaging. So with this setup, I had tons of clutch travel. I'm sure most of you know that a puck disk is much thinner than an organic disk. I got a new 4-puck disk, and used a stock srt pressure plate. Nothing is assembled wrong.Ī few things I left out.With the Clutchmasters clutch, I had no problems up until I let a local shop rebuild the disk, and resurface the pressure plate. I've torn mine down, checked and double checked everything. Or it would be awesome if there were a throwout bearing that was thicker in order to lessen the amount of angle on the arm.ĭoes anybody have any other ideas? By the way, I've done about 7 or 8 clutches on these cars, and have had only two that had this issue, and trust me, it's not install error. So it seems to me that the only way to actually remedy this problem(without having to buy a new clutch) would be to have an adjustable pivot point on which the clutch fork/throwout arm pivots on to allow the end user to adjust the arm to have less of an angle on it, thus giving you more travel without hitting the pressure plate. It is a brand new mopar clutch, and it was a brand new centerforce that my buddy had who had the same issue. And even at that, when I have the car in gear, and the clutch all the way depressed, around 6000 rpms the clutch begins grabbing and jerking the car forward. Basically, to get enough of a disengagement in my clutch to allow my transmission to shift, I have to adjust the clutch pedal all the way out. Basically what is happening is that the clutch fork/throwout arm(whichever it is called) is grinding on the pressure plate. This is a problem I have seen on 2 different cars, and heard of on one other car through the forums.
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